Date: 2010-02-03
By Venessa Lau
February 3, 2010
Women’s Wear Daily
Everyone knows Michelle Obama helped put Jason Wu on the
map. But the subsequent publicity blitzkrieg couldn’t have come at a more
apropos time. Wu was already riding a high from a previous (self-dubbed
“breakthrough”) spring 2009 show, which saw a $1.2 million jump in sales. “We
were ready for that next area of expansion,” Wu, 27, remarks.
And expand he has. Of all the designers in the Obama fashion
tribe, Wu has taken most obvious advantage of his fortuitous moments in the
spotlight. in the past year, the Taiwanese designer launched a pre-fall
collection, sales of which are already 45 percent over initial projections; sunglasses, with Modo Eyewear; his own GE digital camera,
licensed by General imaging; a capsule collection with Tse cashmere, and has
plans to enter the footwear market by 2011. he will also debut a collection of
dolls for Madame Alexander this fall (in addition to his ongoing role as creative director of integrity toys). But perhaps
the greatest example of Wu’s steroidal growth is the recent relocation of his offices
from cramped quarters on 37th
street to a studio more than four times the size:
a sprawling 9,000 square feet. WWD got an exclusive first look at the finished
premises.
Situated on 35th
street in the old Mary McFadden building, the
offices are in the heart of the Garment district. “Being here was important,”
says Wu. “I considered going downtown and to Chelsea, but I produce so much here, I didn’t
want to waste hours going up and down [the city].” Wu calls attention to the internal warehouse in the
rear of his space. “The other route was to have a warehouse outside of New York,” he says. “But
I like to be specific about the way we ship. Now, everything is controlled and
managed in one place.”
The rest of the floor is fairly open, with wide, mirrored
portals throughout so employees can quickly wend their way from one area to the
next. “We wanted to create an open office,” explains architect Giancarlo Valle,
who worked on Phillip Lim’s Los
Angeles boutique and created the runway sets for Wu’s spring
and fall 2009 shows, “so you always felt like you were part of a larger space.”
Even the use of mirrors caters to this notion. “The idea here is that you can be
visually connected to a space without being physically connected,” Valle adds. Meanwhile,
the long stretch in the middle, which runs virtually from one side of the
building to the other, can accommodate intimate runway presentations for his
resort or pre-fall collections. Off-season, the area houses the sales showroom,
which is lined with adjustable hanging racks.
Perhaps the most intriguing part of the space is Wu’s
private office, separated from the rest of the studio by massive 19th-century
wooden doors sourced from upstate New
York. “Originally, we were going to have a glass door
here,” says interior decorator Jesse Green. “But this gives it that ‘wizard of
oz’ feeling when you open the doors.” and, indeed, step beyond the gray
lacquered doors and there’s another world, one bathed in a warm, salmon-hued
glow from collaged wallpaper, custom designed by Elizabeth Dow from old issues
of the new York observer. It’s a stark contrast to the more minimal, industrial
scene outside. In the corner is Joel Grey, in an ad from “cabaret.” over there,
crossword puzzles, and further still, smiling real estate maven Barbara Corcoran
and a dancing Judy Garland and Fred Astaire.
“There’s so much press and buzz around Jason,” says Green. “This
creates a spirit of media here without having any of those self-promotional
photographs or press clippings.” adding an extra arty element: a giant Otto
Zitko scribble painting in black; illustrations by René Gruau (a longtime
favorite of Wu’s) and Thomas Libetti, and photographs from Christoph
Morlinghaus and Sam Frost. A hefty wooden slab table stands front and
center; it’s the only relic from Wu’s old office. “I had to bring my lucky
table,” Wu remarks.
A more traditional white-walled office is tucked in the
back. It’s a small, tidy nook with shelves and a desk. “Jason doesn’t sit still
for a minute,” says Green. “So the idea of having a big office would have been
a waste. it made more sense to have a little space where he could check e-mails
and make a quiet phone call.” there is a thick gray flannel curtain dividing
this area from the main New York observer-decorated room. “I wanted this space
to reflect the company,” explains the increasingly brand-savvy Wu, “that double
element of old and new.” and this point counterpoint of the traditional and
modern pops up everywhere — cast metal tables with curvy old English legs; a
vintage mirror alongside fluorescent color-blocked paintings by street artist
A.S.V.P. Even his frequent use of charcoal gray, whether in that separating
curtain, the lacquered 19th century
doors or on the showroom walls, is a reference to the past. “One of my favorite
things,” says Wu, “is Geoffrey Beene’s Grey Flannel perfume. I always thought
the packaging, this gray flannel drawstring bag, was just the chicest.”